The immediate impression is of lemon meringue pie straight from the oven, with the zesty freshness and pillowy lightness of meringue, richness of lemon curd custard and pie-crust toastiness. This is just the first impression, however—the wine soon unfurls to complex notes of frankincense, seasoned pine wood and beeswax. Reminiscent of a well-aged dry Riesling, it is in fact made from a field-blend of Moscatel and Chasselas, dry-farmed on very old gobelet vines planted in 1905, in the cool, southerly Itata region. This appealing, complex white has rustic roots, which give rise to surprising sophistication.
