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Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2022 Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm

£47

One of the Mosel's steepest vineyards, Wehlener Sonnenuhr ('Sundial') has almost no topsoil - the ground is instead covered by shards of pure blue slate, from which Riesling vines eke out a living, perched precariously above the river below.  The legendary JJ Prum is one of the region's finest producers, and the wines show irresistibly charming peach fruit and clover honey notes when young, while having the capacity to age for decades.  Light in body and low in alcohol, this iconic Kabinett is ethereal in texture, and yet with an intensity, complexity and exciting tension that stands in contrast to its delicacy of style.  A wine of magnificent balance.

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