K. F. Groebe's 2022 Kirchspiel Riesling Grand Cru is a dry wine. The vineyard, classified as VDP Grosse Lage, is located on the upper slopes of a south-easterly hillside in the historical part of Westhofen. The wine has a complex mineral structure and an aromatic spectrum that ranges from peaches and citrus fruits to apricots and mellow flint. It fills the mouth and then retreats, like a concertina, with ripe citrus and mirabelle, then lime and stone dust. The shining, chiastic acidity and structure hold the fruit suspended in time. A heart of sweet greengage and sweet lime. Intricate but not delicate, this is a ferociously focused wine. Tasted by Tamlyn Currin, wine writer for Jancis Robinson, it received an 18/20 rating.