Thirty years in the making, Elanto Chardonnay draws on Sandro Mosele's decades of vine-growing and winemaking on Mornington Peninsula, while an avid student of Burgundy's wines, vineyards and élevage. Densely-planted vines (11,111 per hectare) and a cool, south-facing slope gives the wine an extraordinary combination of concentration and restraint, with notes of wet stones, fresh cream, greengage, green apple, oatmeal and flint. The pent-up richness uncoils in the glass to display extraordinary complexity: honey, pineapple, chamomile, vanilla, bitter lemon, caper and a hint of charcuterie. It has a tight-knit, tangy, zesty, almost chewy core, reminiscent of Santorini Assyrtiko, which is cloaked in gentle generosity. It's powerful and full-bodied, and yet the persistent acidity provides both freshness and thrilling tension.